Going to Peru was my first experience in South America. I was so excited to be traveling to a new continent and new country, but planning my adventure was challenging. There is so much to see in this beautiful country, so planning only a Peru 10 day itinerary was difficult. My priorities were seeing Machu Pichu, and spending some time in the rain forest (though I wasn't sure what that was going to look like).
Here's the TLDR Itinerary:
Lima (2 Days) - Miraflores / Lima Main Square / Swim with Sea Lions at Palomino Island
Lima --> Cusco --> Poroy Train Station --> Machu Picchu Town
Machu Picchu Town (2 Days)
Machu Picchu Town --> Poroy Train Station --> Cusco
Cusco (2 Days) - Free Tour / San Pedro Market / Ruins / Llamas / Rainbow Mountain
Cusco --> Puerto Maldonado
Chuncho Lodge: Tambopata National Reserve (4 Days) - Macaw Clay Lick / Canopy Tower / Piranha Fishing / Jungle Walks
Puerto Maldonado --> Lima --> Back home to MSP
Lima:
Accommodation - In Lima, this Airbnb in Miraflores was absolutely perfect. It looks out onto the Pacific Ocean and is walking distance to a very popular beach. This space is nearby the outdoor shopping mall, LarcoMar and Centro Comercial El Paseo, another outdoor shopping area. There's also a really fancy restaurant out on a dock, right in front of the Airbnb, Restaurante La Rosa Nautica, and even if you don't eat there, definitely still walk out on the dock for gorgeous evening views. It's also about a 30 minute walk into the Lima Main Square, which I felt perfectly safe walking to.
Now, some travelers will tell you that there isn't much to do in Lima, but it all depends on what you are looking for. I often look towards wildlife. You don't have to travel far from Lima for one of the most memorable wildlife encounters in your life. I saw a tour online to swim with Swim with Sea Lions at Palomino Island. I had never heard of Palomino Island before, but now it will forever hold a special place in my heart.
There is pickup offered, or you can simply take a cab to the meeting point. I took a cab to the port in Callao and it was very simple. You do go through a pretty rough area in Lima, but you'll drive straight through it to Callao. There you will meet with your tour guide and the other 15 people or so joining you to a unforgettable adventure.
You'll first happen upon Guano Islands (which of course made me immediately think of Ace Ventura when he's eating from the bowl made from bat guano...). You'll see that these rock formed islands are painted bright white with hundreds of birds droppings. But, the good thing for us nature lovers is that this means these islands are also crawling with different Peruvian birds, including Humboldt Penguins!
And as you come to Palomino Island, the smell you encountered near the Guano Islands, will only intensify. And the sounds are unlike anything you have ever heard. When you first see this rock (below) from a distance, you think it's a standard island rock.
The closer you get, the more you start to see that rock moving and you realize it's COVERED with thousands of sea lions. I will be honest, that at first, the smell is overpowering, but you do really get used to it. Plus, you're so excited and nervous!
You're getting closer to the sea lions, and your tour guide will provide you a wet suit, which is great because the water is cold. There are no whales or sharks is in this section of the ocean, which is why there are over 8,000 sea lions living on this island because they live here free of predators. Anyone that wants to is able to jump in the water and swim up close and personal with hundreds of sea lions. They are playful and curious, but they also keep their distance for the most part.
I promise you I was terrified, but it was the most incredible experience that I will always remember. And if I am lucky enough to find myself in Lima again, I would happily redo this activity.
Next, I started my journey to Machu Pichu town. I flew Sky Airline one-way for about $30 from Lima to Cusco.
From the Cusco Airport, you can take a cheap, 15 minute taxi ride to the Poroy Train Station. I got here in the evening, and wanted to stay the night near Poroy so be able to see the sights on the train ride, which I absolutely recommend. For $20, I stayed at this Poroy Station Airbnb. It's fabulous, and the owners are so friendly. It's walking distance to the train station and I was even fed breakfast before leaving.
Macchu Pichu:
Accommodations: Poroy Station Airbnb, Classic Gran Paititi
The train views traveling from Poroy Station to Machu Picchu Town are fabulous. At some point, I would love to do one of the Inca Trail Hikes, but with the brief time I was in Peru, I simply couldn't fit it in. When you arrive in Machu Picchu Town, you are greeted with stunning beauty no matter which direction you are looking.
You will also hear Machu Picchu Town be referred to as Aguas Calientes which is the former name of the town. Aguas Calientes means hot waters, which is a perfect name for this town because of the abundance of hot springs that you're able to enjoy. About 1 km from the train station, you can walk down Hermanos Ayar and find relaxing thermal baths. There are also a variety of day spas in Machu Picchu town, as it's a destination for people after hiking the Inca Trail.
Now, I didn't hike the Inca Trail, but I wanted to feel like I earned my view of Machu Picchu in some way. You can walk up stairs of Carretera a Machu Picchu, which is the road that the bus drives up to take people to the historic site.
I had met a friend at Classic Gran Paititi who was also looking to climb the steps to Machu Picchu. We left before dawn, because our goal was to be up top for sunrise. I was surprised we were the only people walking up at that time, and that said, I was happy to have a buddy to walk with.
I'm sure we've all seen countless photos of Machu Picchu from the internet, but absolutely nothing compares to seeing it first hand. It is wow moment, after wow moment. There are also a few dozen llamas up throughout the grounds as well, which adds to the whimsy of the experience.
I can't say enough about this experience, and will simply encourage you to get to Peru and see this spectacular site. You won't regret it.
Cusco:
Accommodations: Poroy Station Airbnb , Cusco Airbnb in San Blas Neighborhood
Next, it was off to the impressive city of Cusco which is over 3,000 years old. My first piece of advice would be to make sure that you always have bottled water with you. Cusco sits over 11,000 feet above sea level and altitude sickness is a real thing there, which is not the way you want to spend your time there.
Next, I can't recommend Cusco Airbnb in San Blas Neighborhood enough. This adorable Airbnb is a private room and bathroom upstairs, with a French bakery on the main floor. The smell within the accommodation is delightful, and the included breakfast every morning is the perfect way to start the day. It's walking distance to everything you could want to see in Cusco.
Now, I needed to start my 2 days in Cusco with getting my laundry done, but Cusco is amazing, and for just a couple of bucks, you can drop your dirty clothes off to one of a dozen different laundry services, and pick it up later that day, clean and folded. It was magical! Laundry Lavandaria (pictured above) is where I went, as they were the closet to Cusco Airbnb in San Blas Neighborhood and they were fantastic.
Now with clothes being cleaned, to begin your Cusco adventure and acclimate yourself with the city, check out Guru Walk Free Tour for history and fun facts around the main square, to the and tips for San Pedro Market. After the tour, I went through San Pedro Market and dove right in to the local fare.
Cusco is also filled with dozens of local travel offices with multiple excursions and day trips. My biggest pieces of advice here is to simply go with the cheapest option, because they are all connected. They will all claim to offer different features, but they are connected. Save your money and go with the cheapest option.
I chose to take a day trip to Rainbow Mountain which is about a two hour drive one way from Cusco. You will leave before the sun comes up to start the trek. Cusco Airbnb in San Blas Neighborhood was so kind! I had let them know in advance that I wouldn't be getting breakfast that morning, but they made me a to-go breakfast bag to take on the bus on the way to Rainbow Mountain. Honestly, it was a lifesaver!!
It was a splendid day hiking up to Rainbow Mountain. You'll see sheep, llamas and alpacas on your walk. There are also locals selling horse rides for people that aren't feeling the walk or the high altitude of the area. All of the different kinds of sediment throughout the area is what gives off the variety of colors at Rainbow Mountain.
It's such a unique sight to behold, but definitely get out here early because it can get very busy. After the hike, you're taken to a restaurant for some authentic Peruvian food before the two hour drive back.
Next, it was back to the Cusco Airport for what I was sure was going to be the highlight of my trip! I took a $60 flight on LATAM Airlines to fly into Puerto Maldonado and stayed Wasai Puerto Maldonado Eco Lodge for $25.
Puerto Maldonado:
Accommodations: Wasai Puerto Maldonado Eco Lodge , Chuncho Lodge
It's situated among the trees, and has open air balconies to simply sit and listen to the wildlife. There is also a sloth that has taken up residence outside of the balconies, so you can also watch him relax as well.
I should also explain why I came to Puerto Maldonado, and why I was feeling so excited. Puerto Maldonado is a main pickup area for those looking to go into the Amazon Rain Forest. I was traveling by myself, and was really struggling to find a company that would take me as a solo, but not have me pay for two. (Most of the companies charged by the accommodation, which is made for two people.) Because I am not a big social media person, I relied heavily on reading blogs. I finally found one that allowed solo travelers and charged them for one. I was elated and chose the 4 Day Excursion! From Wasai Puerto Maldonado Eco Lodge, I walked over to the Chuncho Lodge office to check in and begin the adventure! It was myself and 8 other guests. They put us into two SUVs and we set off for the boat to take us to the lodge.
Chuncho Lodge is one of 20 lodges in the Madre de Dios (Mother of God) area in the Amazon. You can only access any of the areas in the Madre de Dios by a specific type of boat to ensure you are causing minimal disruption to the wildlife. Chuncho Lodge is one of only 3 locally owned lodges. The owner, Jorge, was my guide, and he gave a truly unbelievable experience.
Once the boat is docked, the first structure you see is a hammock resting area. I won't lie, and I thought at first that we were sleeping there. It's not, although I did hang out up there quite a bit for naps. It's also the one area for the few days that you will have WiFi access to check-in with loved ones occasionally and let them know you're having the time of your life!
You continue walking back a bit further and seeing where you'll actually be sleeping!
We were able to put our bags away and get ready for our first jungle walk. There is a daily itinerary no matter which excursion you choose, but it's a great mix of activity and free time. (Of course, you can always choose to forego an activity and hang back at the lodge, but don't do that!!) Your food is also included in the excursion, and the meals are incredible. But, back to the walk. This first walk, is something I will never forget. The abundance of wildlife was something I never excepted. Within only a few minutes, I looked up in the trees to see two Macaws.
And they were so close! We watched them for a few minutes before Jorge wanted us to continue.
Jorge knows these jungle walks like the back of his hand, and also knows little secrets of where to find unique sightings. He used a small twig to give a simulation of a small rodent to attract this massive tarantula!
It was crazy! It was definitely my first time ever seeing a wild tarantula. Although my camera is fairly zoomed in, I was a pretty safe distance away. We continued our jungle walk, coming across more Macaws, Woodpeckers, Army Ants, and a few little frogs while Jorge gave us so much information about the area. We got back to the lodge and it was time for dinner.
Right near the kitchen at the lodge, whenever they are cooking, there is so much activity from the Squirrel Monkeys.
After dinner, there was time to relax, and then Jorge took us on a night walk into the jungle looking for nocturnal wildlife. Jorge "fished" for another tarantula, and we found several interesting nocturnal insects. The sounds of the jungle at night were soothing and put me right to sleep once we were back at the lodge before a very early morning wake up call.
We got into our boat just before the sun was coming up, and had a stunning boat ride to the World's Largest Macaw Clay Lick.
Different lodges will also be here for viewing, so it's about 30ish people. The clay lick is on the right side in the photo above. You will be on the bank on the left side, which is a perfect viewing area to the birds. You'll sit on the bank, mesmerized as wild Macaws, Parrots and Parakeets fly overhead to the clay lick.
Jorge is right there giving facts about birds and also has several high power telescopes to look through so that you can see the birds as if they're right next to you. He even has a great trick to put your camera phone up to the telescope for awesome pictures are videos.
After viewing at the clay lick, we head back to our boat for more viewing and breakfast.
I had never been much of a bird watcher before, but this was simply incredible. Jorge even provided binoculars for us to share and look through as well.
So. Many. Macaws.
On our way back to the lodge, we were lucky enough to see a family of Capybara.
Once back to the lodge, we ate a delicious lunch while Squirrel Monkeys played in the background. I napped in the hammock until it was time for our long jungle walk.
The next morning was so fun! I had never been fishing in my life, and my first time ever fishing... was in the Rainforest, fishing for piranha!
Jorge gave us these long wooden sticks (for lack of a better word) with string and a hook, and we were ready to fish. This seemed very Tom Sawyer-esque, and I was all in!
We put little pieces of raw meat on the ends of our hooks, and Jorge taught us how to put our fishing line in, and wait. You need to keep it very still, and almost right away, you can feel the piranha eating the meat on the hook! But you have to stay still. Piranha are very intelligent fish and so often, they would completely eat all of the meat off the hook, without ever getting on the hook. You had to wait for the perfect time to pull your line up.
We caught a couple of piranha, but went through the raw meat at a much higher rate. Those piranha were so fast! After a morning of fishing, we went to a calm bank in the water and went for a lovely leisurely swim. And we were no longer scared to swim in waters with piranha, after Jorge debunked the theories that piranhas would be coming to eat us.
For the last full night at Chuncho Lodge, we went for an evening walk to the Canopy Tower, where you can climb several flights of stairs to be above the canopy, watching the sunset and seeing so many types of birds.
We saw more Macaws, Tucans, Woodpeckers, an amazing sunset and a gorgeous moon. It was the perfect last night before a long journey back to Minneapolis.
The final day is breakfast and the trek back to Puerto Maldonado. If you find yourself in Peru, and wanting to have an epic adventure, I urge you to seek out Chuncho Lodge .
Final Thoughts on Peru: 10 Days is certainly not enough, but what an adventure you can have even in that short amount of time. The food everywhere I was, was some of the most amazing cuisine I'd ever tasted. The people are so kind and willing to help out. It's also very inexpensive to travel around and to have private accommodations.
If you have questions about Peru, suggestions for other travelers, please leave a comment below. Happy Travels!
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